This past weekend, a group of thirty-one Rwandan golfers and I had the opportunity to experience a weekend getaway in Bujumbura, Burundi. While my travel companions were heading for The Tanganyika Open Golf Tournament, I was headed for a weekend filled with adventure, exploring and fun. We left Kigali at about 2 pm on Friday in what tour operators term a “Presidential bus.” It was not my first choice, and I debated with my cousin if it was worth it, I mean - value for money.
With negotiations here and there and how practical I am around money, my lovely cousin Ivo topped up my ticket, and voilà, we were together on the bus. The bus itself was an experience - reclining chairs, ample leg room and a fridge to keep all our alcoholic beverages cold amidst the journey. The journey was punctuated with conversations, laughter, dancing, and even singing. Within 90 minutes, we were at the Bugesera border of Rwanda and Burundi, and I was excited to see a new East African country.
Crossing into Burundi was a breeze; the border wasn’t too busy, and the immigration officers were friendly and professional. They wished us the best of luck in the golf tournament, and we promised to bring them a trophy on our way back to Kigali. Strangely, the border reminded me of the Kyanika border of Uganda and Rwanda - small, charming and hustle free.
The countryside in Burundi is stunning. There are rolling hills and lush green fields blanketed with small villages inhabited by the warm and welcoming people of the country. One of the highlights is small terraced plots of land where farmers grow coffee, bananas and beans. Burundi is best known for the ritual dance of the royal drums, a drumming tradition that combines synchronized drumming with dancing and traditional songs.
Burundi is culturally and ethnically similar to Rwanda. In fact, during the colonial era under Belgium, the two counties were one entity known as Ruanda-Urundi. After the end of colonialism, Burundi gained independence from both Belgium and Rwanda. The first few decades of Burundi’s history were marked by civil war. The 1970s and 1990s both saw terrible conflict and political unrest in 2015. Since then, the nation has worked hard to rebuild its society, and today, Burundi is a peaceful country that is safe to visit and enjoy.
We descended from the rolling hills and arrived at the beautiful city of Bujumbura on the shores of Lake Tanganyika at about 10 pm. It was drizzling, creating a calm and refreshing atmosphere for our arrival. We were captivated by the stunning views, which framed the shimmering lake, and the bustling streets that seemed to never end. We could tell we were in a place of great culture and beauty. As we continued our journey, we were surrounded by breathtaking views, with the lake and rolling hills providing a majestic backdrop.
After the long journey filled with detours, I was relieved to arrive at our hotel. We stayed at Martha Hotel, a cozy and comfortable accommodation in one of Bujumbura's leafy neighborhoods. I checked into my room and took a long shower to relax, and after refreshing myself, I drifted off to sleep in my cozy bed. The exhaustion from the trip coursed through my veins, pushing me into a deep and peaceful night's sleep.
I woke to the golden morning light softly spilling in through the curtain's edge and onto my face. I rose from my bed and went to the balcony that overlooked the city. The view was breathtaking - lush trees, a clear sky, and stunning colonial architecture. I took time to soak in the morning sun, allowing the warmth and vitamin D to invigorate me. Then, feeling completely re-energized, I returned to the room to enjoy a refreshing shower and went to the restaurant. To my delight, the restaurant offered a variety of local and international cuisine, and the staff was friendly and welcoming.
Just after I finished my breakfast, my Burundian friend Stacey came to pick me up to take me on a tour of the city. I couldn't help but be taken aback by the impressive old architecture, clean streets, and bustling African markets. Despite being the largest city in Burundi, there was surprisingly little traffic, which made the experience all the more enjoyable. It's one of the few cities in East Africa that opts not to have motorbikes in the city, instead relying on buses, cabs, taxis, and passenger vehicles. This makes for a pleasant and hassle-free driving experience.
We visited a few craft shops on our tour around the city, and what a delight it was! Every shop we saw seemed to have its unique atmosphere, with colorfully decorated shelves, items crafted with skill and love, and of course, the friendly shop attendants. We bought a few beautiful products made in Burundi, including colorful artwork and jewelry. With our purchases in hand, we felt proud to have supported local artisans and had the opportunity to purchase items made with genuine care.
Even though Bujumbura is not Kigali regarding cleanliness, I found little rubbish and dirt, especially when you compare it with Nairobi, Kampala or Dar-es-Salaam. The streets are in good shape, and walking from one place to another is easy. Additionally, there are many small French patisseries where you can enjoy French bites with a Burundian twist. Like most East African cities at this time of the year, Bujumbura is no different in terms of temperature. The afternoons are characterized by intense humid heat. With temperatures soaring close to 30°C and relentless sunshine overhead, we found relief in the calm waters of Lake Tanganyika.
Lake Tanganyika is Africa's second-largest lake and a special place for East Africans. To Burundians, Lake Tanganyika is considered their ocean. For those who live in Bujumbura, it is the hotspot to be on the weekends and holidays. The lake is home to several beaches where we spent the day trying out the restaurants and bars and soaking up the sun by the shore. Just as I walked into the lake, security told me not to be surprised if I saw a hippopotamus lying in the water. Occasionally, these animals leave the lakes to get some R&R by the beach.
At around 8 pm, we headed to the golf course for the prize-giving ceremony, where my uncle Andre and Emma, a brilliant lawyer I met on the bus, both won. We celebrated with food, wine, and dancing, led by an incredible DJ. Billy, one of the Burundian golfers, made us marvel with his rhythmic dance moves.
Medals and trophies were awarded, and then it was time to continue the celebration at the nightclub. The clubs in Bujumbura hit differently - the music, the people, the alcohol - everything! I loved it! We made new Burundian friends - they were kind, generous and friendly. They welcomed us with open arms and shared hilarious stories. My young body pushed it till 4 am and returned to the hotel, leaving the older folks in the club till 6 am - the irony!
On Sunday, we spent some time leisurely having brunch before we decided to spend our last few hours before the departure soaking up some sunshine at the beach. We returned to Kigali later in the day, and with a heart full of unforgettable memories, I bid farewell to Bujumbura. Without a doubt, Bujumbura was one of the most enjoyable weekend trips I've ever been on this year. From the markets to the golf course, the nightclubs to the beach and the fantastic people, I highly recommend Bujumbura as the perfect weekend getaway for fun and culture.
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