“A sundowner is a refreshing (alcoholic) drink taken at sunset in the African bush to end your afternoon safari game drive adventure in style.”
As someone who loves to travel and explore new places, I've had the opportunity to see many incredible houses and architectural wonders around the world. However, no single house has truly taken my breath away like The African Heritage House in Nairobi, Kenya. Described by the renowned Architectural Digest as "an architecture rising from the sere Kenyan plain like an outcropping of earth, a vision of usefulness informed by the African genius for decoration," The African Heritage House is a curator's dream.
Located 25 km away from Nairobi city, near Mlolongo on the Nairobi-Mombasa highway, and a 15-minute drive from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, The African Heritage House showcases artwork made by African artists from all over the continent. The house was built in the 1970s by Alan Donovan, an American who fell in love with Africa and its rich cultural heritage. Alan was a passionate collector of African art and artifacts, and wanted to create a space that would allow him to share his love of the continent with others.
From the moment we walked through the gate and saw the magnificent house rising up before us, I knew we were in for something special. The house was designed in a traditional African style, inspired by the mud architecture of the Great Mosque of Djenné in Mali, the mud palaces of Morocco, Swahili architecture of the East African coast, Zanzibar and Lamu, and the traditional houses of Ghana and Burkina Faso. The interior is just as impressive, with vibrant colors, intricate patterns, stunning works of art everywhere you look and an interior courtyard derived from Moroccan culture.
A tour of the house is like a journey through time and space. Mentally, you cross borders from one country to another, exploring hundreds of handcrafts, textiles, African-themed furniture, décor accessories, images and artwork that bears many untold African stories. The stairway to the first floor is lined with rare handwoven fabrics and embroidered ceremonial robes from Nigeria. At the top of the stairs is a Yoruba-carved wooden headdress which represents the celebration of the battle of an ancient Yoruba King. From Benin, there are numerous tales imprinted on metal plates - tales about ancient kings and folklore. And from Uganda, the sculptor John Odoch Ameny dominates the outdoors with thematic iron sculptures.
As we explored the house, I was struck by how every detail had been carefully thought out and executed. From the hand-carved wooden beams to the mosaic stained glass, every inch of the house was a work of art in itself. But what really set it apart was how each room had been curated with a specific theme in mind, showcasing Africa's diverse cultures and traditions. The house features a stunning rooftop terrace with breathtaking views of Nairobi National Park and the surrounding countryside. The gardens are beautifully landscaped, with fountains and sculptures adding to the ambiance. The pool house exhibits African design with sculptures by African artists, and the nature around it enhances the beauty of this wondrous place.
While I walked through the house, I couldn't help but imagine what it would be like to call this place my home. The thought of waking up each morning to the sound of birds chirping and the scent of fresh flowers wafting in through the windows was almost too much to bear. I imagined spending my evenings on the balcony teaching my kids how to paint, solve puzzles or play chess while sipping a glass of chilled Sauvignon Blanc. I pictured myself hosting Sunday brunch, playing monopoly all afternoon with family and friends, then spending the evening preparing for work I was passionate about. Just when I was getting deeper into my daydream, I heard the sigh of Eric - one of our Kenyan friends, say: "You know that we are not really living; we are merely existing."
So, what is it to live? To live is to be comfortable with the uncomfortable, to embrace change with a smile; to embrace a new and improved version of yourself and act on your dreams irrespective of your fear or perceived hardship. That said, Alan Donovan clearly lived. Born in Colorado, Donavan arrived in Africa in 1967 with the US State Department as a Relief Officer during the Nigerian-Biafra war. He resigned from his post in 1969, bought a Volkswagen bus in Paris, and traveled through the Sahara Desert to Nigeria. Alan then drove across the Congo to Kenya, arriving in Nairobi in 1970. After that, he spent several months with the people of the Northern Frontier District of Kenya. He held his first exhibition in 1970 and later opened African Heritage, the first Pan-African gallery, in 1972.
The tour of the house ended with sundowners on the rooftop balcony. The gracious curator shared her experience working with Alan. We later learned that he passed away in 2021, but his legacy lived on through The African Heritage House and the work of the African Heritage Pan African Gallery he founded. We discussed the importance of preserving African culture and heritage and how The African Heritage House was doing just that. It was inspiring to see how Alan's passion for Africa led him to create something beautiful and meaningful. As the sun set and the sky turned orange, we shared stories about Kenya and Canada, soaking in the moment and feeling grateful for the opportunity to experience such a special place with friends.
Overall, the tour was an unforgettable experience. You don't often come across a property that truly takes your breath away, but this one did just that. The house's history, the story of its owner, and the stunning views all came together to create a magical moment I will never forget. If you're ever in Nairobi and looking for a unique experience, I highly recommend visiting The African Heritage House.
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